“同袍”，语出《诗经·秦风·无衣》，“岂曰无衣，与子同袍”。这里的“同袍”指的是战友。而在现代汉服爱好者之间，亦多以“同袍”互称，既有互称战友，共襄此举的勉励，又暗示了此处的“袍”即汉服。
汉服，指的是汉民族的服饰，其基本特点是褒衣大袖，右衽系带。据媒体2022年3月报道，成都是当之无愧的“中国汉服第一城”，仅成都市区就有20多万“同袍”，以15-35岁的年轻人居多，人数全国最多，成都的汉服商家数量、品牌和销量也在全国名列前茅。
成都发达的汉服生态圈，吸引了诸多汉服爱好者，汉服博主“小万姑娘”也是其中之一。“小万姑娘”本名万洁，曾是一名“95后”女兵，退伍后和朋友开设了一间摄影工作室。2018年初，在一次拍摄中，她偶然接触到汉服，拍摄的视频得到了很多网友的传播和点赞，也勾起了她对汉服的兴趣。
2018年，“小万姑娘”来到成都，穿着汉服走上街头，发现路人中不乏穿着汉服的“同袍”，一种契合感和归属感击中了她，“穿汉服走在街头，不会有人投来异样的目光，反而被羡慕”。她当即决定，来成都创业。
在万洁看来，汉服不仅仅是一种服饰，还承载着深厚的传统文化。每到传统佳节，“同袍”们就会举办热闹的汉服出行活动，比如元宵观灯、端午祭屈原、七夕相亲、中秋拜月等，规模都相当可观。万洁萌生了通过短视频传播汉服文化的念头。她恶补汉服知识，从网上的论坛、资料到专业文献、书籍，从袁杰英的《中国历代服饰史》到沈从文的《中国古代服饰研究》，一页页地啃。学透、消化后再拍摄短视频，展示汉服之美，科普汉服知识，由此开始了汉服博主之路。如今，她已有500多万粉丝，很多人留言说“因为小万姑娘入了汉服坑”，她也因此获得了成就感和坚持下去的动力。
2019年，万洁成为一名母亲。女儿出生后，粉丝纷纷留言期待看到小万姑娘和女儿一起穿汉服的样子。她在网上、线下到处逛，也没能找到适合婴儿穿的汉服。“既然当下没有人做婴儿汉服，那自己就把这块地好好播种一番。”此后，她开始了成人、婴儿汉服的同步制作。
从短视频创作者跨行到汉服设计制作，对万洁来说是一项全新的挑战。原创设计、材料选择、打版绣花，每一道工序都是难题。“每个环节都会有很多雷、很多坑，只能一步一步去踩。”万洁说，在部队当兵的两年，培养了她勇往直前、坚毅不屈的性格，面对困难的时候不会逃避和害怕，而是想办法解决它。
创业初期，万洁几乎全年无休，一心扑在汉服上，边学边干。当第一套亲子汉服穿上身时，满满的成就感瞬间将长期的劳累一扫而光，和女儿一起拍摄的短视频还俘获了一拨年轻妈妈粉丝。
2020年，新冠肺炎疫情发生后，万洁带领团队设计了一款名为“生机”的汉服，竖领大襟长衫、云肩和马面裙上，绣着武汉地标，黄鹤楼、樱花、燕子……“希望通过汉服描绘一个春意盎然、生机勃勃的武汉，向社会传递正能量。”她说。
与此同时，万洁还不断创新短视频内容。她尝试把汉服与剧情、变装、文旅相结合，围绕汉服如何融入当代人生活进行探索，再根据网友的反馈不断改善升级。如今，她的团队已经从最初自己单枪匹马扩大到了近百人。
在创业道路上，万洁乘上了成都“引才”的东风。近年来，成都不断加强政策创新，招引人才尤其是青年人才，打造宜商宜居的环境，搭建激发人才活力的创新平台，助力青年在成都筑梦追梦圆梦。
青年是推动经济社会发展、科技创新、乡村振兴的主力军和突击队，大力支持青年创新创业是关键。近些年，共青团成都市委在深入了解青年创新创业就业需求现状基础上，推出各种举措，为青年人群创新创业提供广阔舞台。《青年创业城市活力报告（2021）》显示，成都位居青年创业者期望创业城市全国第二，逐渐成为青年创业落地的新选择。
此外，成都市对退役军人的扶持，比如减税政策等，也给了万洁不少支持。2021年，她还参加了第二届四川省退役军人创业创新大赛，并荣获三等奖。她说，这场比赛让更多人看到退役军人创业的努力和过程，也激励他们不断前行，帮助他们获得资源。
回顾过往，万洁说，创业之初赶上了互联网经济腾飞的天时，而成都这座城市则为她提供了地利与人和。“成都重视传统文化的传承与创新，对我们的创业提供了政策支持和帮助，同时成都又是人才济济、时尚青年汇聚的城市，我们的团队大部分都是‘90后’‘95后’，非常有活力。”
谈及未来，万洁很坚定，自己作为一个传统文化的新媒体创业者，将以汉服为载体去传播中国的优秀传统文化。现在，她和团队正在探索跨境电商领域，希望能让产品和文化一起出海，实现“把经典变为流行，让民族走向世界”的愿景。
“以前穿上军装是保家卫国，后来褪去军装穿上汉服，去传承和弘扬中国文化，我1觉得也是很自豪的。”万洁说。（黄先懿）
"Tongpao"is from Book of Songs·Odes of Qin·No Clothes,specifically from the phrase"Never say you don't have any clothes to wear,for I'd share my campaign gown with you".Here,"tongpao"refers to comrades in arms.Modern Hanfu lovers also call each other"tongpao",which not only means they are comrades in arms and they have common ambition,but also indicate that the"pao"here refers to Hanfu.
Wan Jie and her daughter Shi Yue were appreciating flowers wearing parent-kid Hanfu. Hanfu,meaning the costume of Han Chinese,mainly features loose robe with large sleeves and lacing covering up the right lapel.According to the report by Oriental Outlook in March 2022,Chengdu is the"City of Hanfu in China".In the downtown area of Chengdu,there are over 20 thousand"tongpaos",mainly young people between 15 and 35,making Chengdu the city with most population of Hanfu in China and rank top nationwide in the number of Hanfu shops and Hanfu brands as well as in the sales volume.
Chengdu's advanced Hanfu circle attracts a large number of Hanfu lovers.Lady Wan,a Hanfu blogger,was one of them.Lady Wan,real name Wan Jie,was a demobilized post-1995 female soldier who has established a photography studio with her friends.At the beginning of 2018,when she was making a video,she came into contact with Hanfu.The video got widely spread and praised by net users,which also sparkled her interest in Hanfu.
In 2018,Lady Xiaowan came to Chengdu,worn Hanfu and walked down the street.She found that there were many other"tongpaos"wearing Hanfu among the pedestrians,which arouses her senses of fitting and belonging."Walking down the street wearing Hanfu makes others be envious of,rather than feel strange with you."Immediately,she decided to start her business in Chengdu.
In Wan Jie's opinion,Hanfu is a costume that also carries profound traditional culture.On every traditional festival,"tongpaos"would hold lively and large-scaled Hanfu activities,such as lantern viewing on Lantern Festival,offering sacrifice to Qu Yuan on Dragon Boat Festival,blind date on Qixi Festival,moon worshipping on Mid-Autumn Festival,etc.Wan Jie also came up with an idea to disseminate Hanfu culture through short videos.She crammed up knowledge about Hanfu,by viewing and learning from online forums and information material and professional literature and books.She also read page by page the literature,like Yuan Jieying's A History of Chinese Costumes of Dynasties and Shen Congwen's A Research on Chinese Ancient Costume.After fully getting good grasp of the knowledge,she started tofilm short videos to display the beauty of Hanfu,popularize knowledge about Hanfu and started her career as a Hanfu blogger.Sofar,she already has had over 5 million fans.Many would leave her comments like"I started to fall in love with Hanfu because of Lady Xiaowan".She also derive a sense of achievement and the motivation to move ahead from these comments.
Wan Jie was taking photos of the display of Hanfu. In 2019,Wan Jie became a mother.After the birth of her daughter,her fans commented that they looked forward to seeing Lady Xiaowan and her daughter together wear Hanfu.She sought for the Hanfu for babies online and offline,but never to find it."Since no one is currently making any baby Hanfu,I should cultivate this field where no one has set foot on yet."After that,she began to go on simultanously to make Hanfu both for adults and babies.
From creating short videos to designing and making Hanfu,Wan Jie was confronted with entirely new challenges.Original design,material selection,template making,and embroidery.Each procedure was not easy at all."There were so many uncertainties in each procedure,and I had to have a try one by one,"said Wan Jie.The two year military service has developed her courage,perseverance and persistence.In face of hardship,she would attempt to find ways to overcome it rather than escaping or getting afraid.
In the early stage of her business,Wan Jie nearly had n o vacation throughout the year,and she committed herself fully to Hanfu,learning it as she went along.As she and her daughter put on the first set of parent-kid Hanfu she made,she felt full of sense of achievement which immediately cleared away her long-time tiredness.The short videos that she made together with her daughter also captured a bunch of young-mother fans.
In order to truly integrate Hanfu into public life,Wan Jie also explores the design of stylized Hanfu,in addition to making the Hanfu that complies with the traditional forms.While absorbing the traditional culture,the Hanfu is also made according to modern aesthetics,with improvement in design and fabric.
In 2020,after COVID-19 outbreak,Wan Jie led her team in designing a Hanfu named"Vitality",which is a long gown that has vertical collar and large lapel,cappa and horse-face skirt,with embroidery patterns of Wuhan landmarks,Yellow Crane Tower,cherry blossoms,and swallows,etc.on the gown."We wish to depict Wuhan in lively spring and full of vitality through this Hanfu,so as to deliver positive energy to the society,"she said.
In the meantime,Wan Jie never stopped creating new short videos.She tried to combine Hanfu with stories,costume play and cultural tourism and explored the way to integrate Hanfu with modern life,thereby making improvement on the Hanfu according to netizens'feedback.Today,her team has expanded to around 100 members,while at first,she worked alone.
On the road of entrepreneurship,Wan Jie also benefited from Chengdu's"Talent Introduction Program",from which she received a ton of help.In recent years,Chengdu consistently enhanced policy innovation,attracted talent,especially young ones,created an environment suitable for both business and living,and established an innovative platform to stimulate the vitality of talent and assist young people with pursuing their dreams here in Chengdu.
Wan Jie and her daughter Shi Yue were on journey wearing parent-kid Hanfu. Young people are the main force and storm troops in promoting economic and social development,technological innovation,and rural revitalization.Therefore,it's critical to provide large support for young people's innovation and entrepreneurship.In the past few years,the Chengdu Municipal Committee of the Communist Youth League released measures after learning about the current situation and needs of young people's innovation and entrepreneurship in an in-depth way to provide a great platform for those young people.It's shown in the Youth Venture Urban Vitality Report(2021)that Chengdu ranks second nationwide in terms of the city that young entrepreneurs wish to start in.Chengdu
is gradually becoming the new choice for youth entrepreneurship.
What's more,Chengdu also provides support for veterans,such as the tax deduction program,which also helped Wan Jie a lot.In 2021,she participated in the 2nd Sichuan Veterans Innovation and Entrepreneurship Competition and won the third prize.She said that this contest made more people see veterans'efforts and process of entrepreneurship,and also encouraged them to move forward nonstop and helped them acquire resources.
That's how Wan Jie keeps advancing on the road to her dream with the support of governments and the encouragement provided by the policies.This May,the Chengdu Municipal Committee of the Communist Youth League and the Chengdu Youth Federation granted her"Chengdu Youth May 4th Medal".
Looking back on her experience,Wan Jie said she was lucky to catch up to the boost of Internet-based economy at the beginning of her business,and Chengdu provided her with the necessary geographic and cultural conditions."Chengdu puts great stress on the heritage and innovation of traditional culture,which helps our entrepreneurship with policy support and assistance.Moreover,Chengdu is a city full of talent and fashionable young lives.Most members of our team are post-90s and post-95.They are very lively."
Speaking of the future,Wan Jie said in an assertive tone that she,as a new media entrepreneur of traditional culture,will spread Chinese excellent traditional culture with Hanfu as the carrier.Nowadays,she and her team are exploring the field of cross-border e-commerce,wishing to export their products as well as the culture and realize the vision of"turning classics into fashion and making national culture global".
"In the past,I wore millitary uniform to guard our homeland.Now,I wear Hanfu to inherite and carry forward Chinese culture.I'm pretty proud of myself,"said Wan Jie.
